France September 2018, May 2019, September 2019
Fall 2018
We arrive in Le Puy en Velay on Sept. 18, 2018 by train from Lyons
September 19, 2018: After a night's rest we head up to the Cathedral to get our passports for our journey. The office didn't open till 10 am so we had a late start and only planned on hiking 16 km today.
Passports in hand we begin our trek by trying to find the start of the trail.
Exiting the Cathedral
The route markers begin from the town square below the Cathedral
After exiting the town the route follows a gravel road through rolling hills but climbing steadily from 625m in Le Puy en Velay to 1,108m in Montbonnet where we plan to stop for the day.
The first of what will become familiar markers for the route. We are following GR65 which is marked by white and red flags.
The route passes through numerous farms.
As well as small villages
The trail crossed open fields
and stone wall lined forested areas.
After hiking 8.5 km we arrive at the village of Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaizon and sit down for a 4 course lunch and well deserved beer at an outdoor cafe.
Back on the trail after lunch
We arrived at our Gite -La Grange/Bar Bar Saint-Jacques. After showers and a bit of wash we relaxed in the courtyard and waited for another wonderful meal.
September 20, 2018: Based on advice from some fellow guests at our Gite, the next day we planned on only a 14.5km hike. This would bring us down into a deep valley. If we went further we would face a very long ascent and no town nearby to stay the night. Better to face that on another day.
The weather was spectacular again for our second day of hiking.
We begin the descent into the valley.
After 7.5 km hiking we stopped for lunch in Saint-Didier-d'Allier. Lunch was less extravagant to day but we did find a couple of beers.
Ready to get back on the trail.
The trail soon becomes rocky as it enters a forest.
We passed through the small town of Saint-Privat d'Allier
Village of Rochegude
The real descent begins.
Our objective for the day, Monistrol d'Allier, comes into view.
We have arrived at our guest house, Le Repos du Pelerin, and so a well deserved snack before dinner is in order.
The view from our room.
The view from our room.
September 21st, 2018: We begin a 23.5 km hike with another glorious day ahead of us as well as a 400 m climb over 3 km.
Looking back at Monistrol d'Allier part way up the climb. Anything to take a break from climbing.
17th Century Chapelle de la Madeline is built into a grotto part way up the climb.
Nearing the top.
Finally at the top.
Back on level ground.
Approaching the town of Saugues.
Tree sculptures lined the trail as we approached Saugues
The cows were on their way out of town as we arrived.
September 22nd, 2018: After doing some calculations over dinner we determined that we had to start increasing our hiking distance if we wanted to reach our goal of reaching Cahors at the 340km point on the trail. We therefore planned on hiking 28 km today to reach the village of Estrets. The weather was cloudy and cooler as we set off on the trail.
But the skies soon cleared.
After hiking 21 km we took a well deserved break for lunch in the town of Saint Alban sur Limagnole
Back on the trail which climbs out of the town.
More rolling hills to traverse.
But finally our destination has been reached being Les Estrets and our Gite d'Etape Le Gevaudan.
September 23rd, 2018: We leave our Gite early the next morning with a plan to hike 23 km to Fineyrols and leave by the back door directly onto the trail.
Another beautiful day as we started out.
After 7 km we entered to town of Aumont Aubrac
Another 5 km down the trail and we entered the village of La Chaze du Peyre. Strangely quiet on a Sunday.
The trail has been climbing so we are over 1,100 m and the area is dryer with more cattle farms.
We pass through the town of Fineyrols on our way to our guest house La Rose de l'Aubrac
September 23rd, 2018: An unexpected turn of events last night when I started to pass a kidney stone. All plans were out the window and my hiking partner took over and arranged a cab to a bus to a train that took us to Paris for a flight home the next morning. Not sure if the grimace on my face is pain or the sun in my eyes.
So various medical procedures later we planned on returning to the trail in the Spring.
Spring 2019
April 27th, 2019: We are back in Paris on a cooler cloudy day for a 11 day trip to finish what we planned i.e. reach Cahors.
On our way to the train station we stopped to pay our respects to Notre Dame.
After leaving Oakville on Friday evening we arrived at Aumont Aubrac Saturday evening. The plan was to take a cab from our hotel the next morning 16 km to where we had left off last Fall. However, apparently cabs don't work on Sundays in Aumont Aubrac so when we went to bed that night we were facing an additional 16 km hike on top of the planned 240 km. Not an auspicious start.
April 28th, 2019: Luckily, the next morning the desk clerk had the brilliant idea of calling a cab company in a town nearby and so we were back where we left off by 9:30 am.
It was cold morning with snow threatening and delivering throughout the day.
We entered the town of Nasbinals after hiking 11 km.
There were a lot more hikers on the trail than last Fall.
After 20 km we passed through the village of Aubrac that was founded in the 11th century. From here we began descending from 1,300 m to 800 m at our destination for the night.
We passed an ancient volcanic plug.
We could have been on the Bruce Trail for this picture.
We finally arrive at Saint Chely D'Aubrac after 27 km hike due to a planning error where we confused one of many towns with Aubrac in their name. Along the river bank in town I posed with another pilgrim.
April 29th, 2019: We started the day under bright skies with a more reasonable objective of hiking 22 km to Espalion.
The road out of town.
Looking back at the town.
Soon we were back out in farmland.
After a long climb we enjoy a wonderful lunch with an even better view.
After 16 km we entered the Medieval town of Saint Come D'Olt with a unique twisted church spire.
After 16 km we entered the Medieval town of Saint Come D'Olt with a unique twisted church spire.
Pilgrims entering the church. Note the symbol of The Way in the cobblestones in front of the church.
We approach Espalion on the banks of the River Lot. Our hotel, the Hotel de France, was right in the centre of town but unfortunately wasn't open until 5 pm so we had to sit at a cafe and drink.
Admiring the view at the end of the day.
April 30th, 2019: Our objective for today was to hike 27 km to the town of Golinhac and the weather was cooperating with beautiful blue skies. The trail passes but luckily doesn't hike up to a castle as we leave town.
More rolling hills for today.
Looking across the River Lot valley
After a 11 km hike we arrived at Estaing where we enjoyed lunch and a beer at an outdoor cafe. The 15th century chateau is now used as a convent.
A fisherman on the River Lot.
Another climb out of the valley.
We arrive in Golinhac only to discover we had passed our hotel about 5 km back. Luckily there was a campground in town with small chalets for rent and a nice restaurant for a great dinner.
May 1st, 2019: Today we plan on a 21 km hike to Conques which is a medieval city built in a steep valley. The weather continued to cooperate with blue skies again.
After 8.5 km we approached the town of Espeyrac.
The descent into Conques followed a gully which luckily was dry.
The cathedral of Saint Foy in Conques.
Our hotel, the Sainte Foy was right behind the tree in the middle of the photo.
The courtyard in our hotel from above.
As mentioned, the town is built on a steep hillside.
Detail of tympanum above the main doors of the Cathedral.
May 2nd, 2019: We both agreed that the town was the perfect spot to take a rest day so we spent the day wandering the town.
May 2nd, 2019: We both agreed that the town was the perfect spot to take a rest day so we spent the day wandering the town.
The bridge out of town that we will take tomorrow.
May 3rd, 2019: We left Conques after a night of rain and it threatened to continue.
After crossing the bridge the trail rose steeply up the other side of the valley. After climbing part way we looked back at Conques with the clouds in the valley.
After reaching the top we passed a small chapel in Noailhac.
It was a grey day but we didn't get any rain after all.
We crossed the Prime Meridian!
Lunch was a baquette at the side of the trail today as there were not many towns.
We had spent much of the day up on the ridges but descended to the Lot River valley to our destination, Livinhac le Haut, after a 23.5 km hike.
Our guest house for the night in Livinhac le Haut.
May 4th, 2019: The next day we awoke to fog in the valley but we were soon above the clouds with perfect weather for our planned 24.5 km hike to Figeac.
The trail was busier this morning with a lot of local hikers out on the weekend.
After 15 km we passed through the town of Saint Jean Mirabel.
We entered the town of Figeac which is on the Cele River and has a restored medieval downtown area across from our hotel Le Pont D'or.
May 5th, 2019: The next day we planned on hiking 32 km to Cajarc which is a large town on the River Lot. The weather continued to cooperate with blue skies as we set out in the morning.
We quickly climbed out of the river valley.
We encountered a hedgehog on the side of the road.
Iris' and poppies were in full bloom along the trail.
We entered the town of Faycelles.
Trail marker telling us to turn right out of town.
The hike was generally flat today other than the hike out of the valley and back down at the end of the day.
One of the few vineyards we had seen on the trail.
The town of Cajarc comes into sight from the top of a limestone cliff that surrounds the town.
Inside a cave part way down the cliff.
After a long day we checked into the Blue Hotel along the River Lot. Great food that night for dinner and a special treat.
May 6th, 2019: After yesterday's long hike we planned on only 19 km to Limogne en Quercy. We headed back into town to cross the river.
Crossing the unique and old suspension bridge.
Crossing back into town when we realized we had made a wrong turn and were not supposed to cross the bridge.
Along the River Lot
Looking back towards Cajarc.
Approaching the town of Gaillac.
Looking back to Gaillac.
After 10 km of hiking we approached Mas del Pech.
A vendor of various Chemin de St. Jacques memorabilia.
Donkeys in a field.
We enter the town of Limogne en Quercy and seek out a cafe.
Our guest house for the night is a little further along so we set off again after a brief drink.
May 7th, 2019: The next day we planned on hiking 26 km to Lalbenque which is known for its truffles. The weather cooperated yet again making for a pleasant hike. After hiking back into town to pick up a baquette for lunch we headed down the trail. This part of the trail follows a very straight and somewhat boring Roman road.
Alongside the trail were numerous stone well structures.
After 12 km we took a break for lunch in the town of Bach named after a German family that settled in the area
We pushed on to the town of Lalbenque where we found a cafe and our hotel La Tissandiere.
The view from our hotel room.
May 8th, 2019: Our final day of hiking was 21 km into Cahors where we planned on a rest day before taking the train to Paris and then home. It had rained overnight and was threatening all day as we hiked and so few pictures were taken. Cahors as we walk down into the River Lot valley.
The rain didn't descend until we had crossed into the town and were almost to our Hotel Divona which was right on the river near Pont Valentre which is the finest fortified bridge in Europe according to our guidebook.
The town is surrounded by the River Lot on three sides with lots of bridges and has a medieval section that we spent our rest day exploring.
The next day, May 10th, we were off to Paris by train and then home to Toronto.
September 27th, 2019 and we are back in Cahors to continue our adventures!
The next day we head out of town on a 20.5 km hike to Lascabanes by crossing the fortified bridge. Looks like another great day for hiking.
The trail turns left up a steep cliff to get our blood flowing.
Climbing up the cliff provides an opportunity for photos and to catch your breath.
Ever higher.
Don't two of the bridge towers appear to be leaning?
Finally on some flat ground.
But then we climb again.
The first sign of other pilgrims ahead.
First of many crosses along the route with stones placed on the monument by pilgrims on their journey. Of particular interest is the heavily laden grape vines in the background.
One of the clearer route blazes.
We begin our descent into Lascabanes
Passing fields of sorghum (a cereal I later discovered) as we enter town.
At last we arrive at our Gite for the night.
Our bedroom for the night is the first window on the right, next to the entrance to the church. Some of the pilgrims had their feet washed by the priest prior to dinner.
A few beers were in order after the first day of hiking and after every day for that matter.
Our communal dinner in the church's wine cellar with the other pilgrims staying at the Gite. The gentleman to my right is Ueli who had hike from Zurich (1250 km) with another 1,250 km to go to Santiago. He, Carol (sitting opposite him), and Julie-Ann (sitting to his right) comprised the English speaking end of the table with Boyd and I. There were also some Quebecers at the other end of the table that we met later. A great meal with plenty of local wine.
September 29th: We were off early he next morning with another promising day of hiking. We were hiking 23.5 km to the town of Lauzerte that day.
Another old well along side the trail.
A small chapel along the route.
The trail passes limestone cliffs like the Bruce.
Entering the town of Montcuq where there was a farmer's market day.
After picking up fixings for Lunch we headed back on the trail where we cam across a man hunting wild boar which apparently entails sitting and waiting for the boar to run past him.
In the village of Rouillac we find a picnic table in front of the church for our lunch of wine, cheese and bread.
We met a few other pilgrims who we tried to entice into sharing our wine. Christan resisted but Francois indulged suggesting that wine was the blood of the pilgrim which we definitely agreed with. Ueli arrived at the end of lunch but sadly we had finished the wine.
Back on the trail after lunch we leave town.
We passed by the town of Montcuq.
A strange shy flock of sheep.
The view before we descend into our destination of Lauzerte
A rest before we begin the descent. Why aren't there any benches?
Down we go.
And we find a bench!
We discover Lauzerte is way on top of a hill.
The view over the valley.
Cats are enjoying the view as well.
On our way to dinner where Carol joined us for dinner.
September 30th: We leave early the next morning on a 24.5 km hike to the larger town of Moissac.
A look back at Lauzerte.
We are joined by more pilgrims as we begin the climb out of the valley.
Resting and looking back after climbing out of the valley.
A pigeon house next to this large farm house..
A water jug for pilgrims on the trail.
The trail follows along a ridge.
A farmer left fresh fruit for pilgrims on the trail.
We pass a field of dead sunflowers.
We pass yet another vineyard.
The town of Dufort-Lacapelette
An orchard that was totally covered to protect the fruit from birds.
Leaving Montesquieu.
Yet another vineyard.
As we enter Moissac we cross a canal that is part of a network that links Bordeaux with the Mediterranean.
October 1st: We begin today's hike of 19.0 km to Auvillar by walking back into town to find the cathedral before heading west on the trail alongside the canal.
We pass a series of locks on the canal.
We crossed over the canal to enter the town of Malause for lunch.
Lunch was lasagna and salad with the obligatory beer but unfortunately the waiter misunderstood and brought a small beer so we had to get another.
A quick view of the town church before we head back on the trail along the canal.
We cross the canal just before a nuclear power plant. The cooling towers can be seen in the background.
More dead sunflower fields.
The final kilometer into Auvillar which is of course on top of a hill.
Round market stall in the town square.
The clock tower. Our hotel for the night was adjacent to the tower.
Our hotel and the deck where we enjoyed our end of day beer.
October 2nd: The next morning we left Auvillar behind and began our 23 km hike to Castet-Arrouy.
The day started off gray but no rain.
We pass though the town of Saint-Antoine.
Further along the trail we caught up to Ueli and Eric (from Grenoble) where a farmer had left out coffee and cake for passing pilgrims.
Ueli joined us for our hike for a time.
The trail passes through the town of Flamarens.
The interior of a church that was being restored.
Photo being taken from inside church.
View over the valley from church.
Heading out of town again.
Entering the town of Miradoux.
and Ueli and Boyd leaving Miradoux
A ruined castle on the outskirts of town.
We arrive at our Auberge for the night and find a place for our end of day beer.
The town square with our Auberge in the background.
October 3rd: We had a more leisurely hike planned for today with only 19 km to our next stop at the town of Marsolan.
The trail continues through farm country.
After 10 km we appoached the town of Lectoure.
As we walked up to the town we passed a cemetery.
The large cathedral dominates the skyline of the town
After a lunch by the Cathedral we head out of town with a view out over the river valley below.
A last look back at Lectoure/
Back to farmland.
We enter the town of Marsolan.
October 4th: We leave early the next day for a 26.5 km hike to the town of Condom.
After hiking through rolling farmland we arrive at our destination in the town of Condom. The Cathedral is to the right and the building at the end of the square is the restaurant where we had a great dinner that night.
The restaurant "Balcony" where we had dinner that night.
View from dinner
Boyd as the fifth Musketeer.
October 5th: We began a 17 km to Montreal du Gers by crossing the La Baise river with morning fog patches in the vineyards.
Crossing the Pont d'Artigues over the Osse River. A bridge has been here since Roman times.
a much needed break with "potable" water nearby.
We reach the outskirts of Montreal.
but where is that hotel?
October 6th: We begin our 27 km hike form Montreal to Manciet by exiting through the town gate.
We are soon back out in the country.
Passing fish ponds.
The trail follows an abandoned rail bed.
Boyd sampling some fruit.
W approach the village of Lamothe.
We take a break near a Gite in the village where they have a compass with distances to major points on our route. Somewhat discouraging.
Back on a rail trail.
We enter the town of Eauze and find a nice restaurant for lunch and beer (Henri IV).
We leave town with only 11 km more to Manciet.
Rain has been threatening all day so rain gear is on but rests are still taken.
We reach our Hotel for the night which on the plus side served beer but there were a number of negatives. After a shower we went downstairs for a beer where the land lady informed us she was going out and would see us at 7:30. So we took our beer outside after she showed us how to get back in the locked hotel. Well after the beer we discovered the key didn't work no matter how we tried to manipulate it in the lock. We were soon wondering whether she meant 7:30 at night or in the morning. Cell phones were dying, clothes and passports were in our room, the town seemed deserted, just a great situation for two paranoid hikers. Luckily after two hours the landlady returned and with great disgust (and total lack of English or sympathy) showed us that she had mistakenly left a key inside the door lock which prevented us from opening it. After she failed to meet us for breakfast at the agreed 7:30 am we were almost ready to write a negative review. Perhaps not one of our recommended places to stay without even commenting on the very high potential for bed bugs.
Wandering the deserted streets looking for someone.
The town bullring was deserted as well.
October 7th: We happily leave town the next morning on a 27.5 km hike to Luppe Violies.
We were soon back in the country.
The trail passes Eglise-l'hopital Sainte Christie which was owned by the Knights of Malta.
For our bilingual readers.
At the Prime Meridian there is a display of photos of other pilgrims.
Approaching the town of Nogaro where there was a car race going on making accommodation at a premium.
Back out in the fields.
Boyd checking out his beard.
An opportune rest stop.
Some fungus and plant photos for Ron J.
We reach our hotel in Luppe Violies which is few kilometres off the trail but is very nice and worth the extra walk.
Palm trees by the backyard pool.
October 8th: Our destination today is Aire Sur L'Adour which according to our guidebook is a 25 km hike but as we leave the hotel we are told it is only 15 km. A nice surprise. Another nice surprise is our first glimpses of the Pyrenees Mountains on the horizon.
We pass a fixer upper but with its own vineyards that seem to have swallowed the house as well.
We stop in the town of Barcelonne-du-Gers by a public swimming pool.
By noon we had arrived at our hotel in Aire sur L'Adour and after dropping our packs we continued on into town for lunch.
October 9th: We left early in the morning with a plan to hike 20 km to Miramont Sensacq. It was another grey day with rain threatening as we climbed out of the town.
The trail passes through a park with a man made lake which was largely drained. Rain began as we passed through the park so pictures were limited.
We reached Miramont Sensacq at 1:15 pm in the rain. The only restaurant/pizzeria was only open from noon until 1 pm and there was little else in the town Our accommodation for the night was 2 km out of town and we weren't allowed in until 3 pm. We had conflicting information as to the distance to the next town, (anywhere form 10 km to 16 km) but we decided to hike on to the next town reasoning it was better to be walking and staying warm than sitting in the rain.
The skies started to clear as we approached our new destination of Arzacq Arraziguet.
The total hike turned out to be 32 km that day but we found a bar where we caught up with our friend Ueli and his wife who had joined him for a couple of weeks of the hike.
We also found a great hotel with nice rooms and an excellent chef that personally served us an amazing meal at our table.
October 10th: The next morning we awoke to a beautiful day for a leisurely 30 km trip by cab to the city of Pau where we were scheduled to catch a plane to Paris the next morning.
A morning walk around Arzacq Arraziguet before we leave.
After a short ride we arrive in Pau with clear views of the Pyrenees.
We spent the afternoon walking around the city.
The Pryenees beckon.
As usual, a beer is welcomed.
Palm trees reminded us how far south we have come.
The town square was being decorated for a breast cancer fund raising event
A pre-dinner beer overlooking the Pyrenees.
After a great meal at the Chicken with 3 Feet we had an early night and an earlier morning for our 6 am flight from Pau to Paris and on to Toronto. We shall return in the Spring to complete our hike over the Pyrenees to Pamplona Spain.
Alongside the trail were numerous stone well structures.
After 12 km we took a break for lunch in the town of Bach named after a German family that settled in the area
We pushed on to the town of Lalbenque where we found a cafe and our hotel La Tissandiere.
The view from our hotel room.
May 8th, 2019: Our final day of hiking was 21 km into Cahors where we planned on a rest day before taking the train to Paris and then home. It had rained overnight and was threatening all day as we hiked and so few pictures were taken. Cahors as we walk down into the River Lot valley.
The rain didn't descend until we had crossed into the town and were almost to our Hotel Divona which was right on the river near Pont Valentre which is the finest fortified bridge in Europe according to our guidebook.
The town is surrounded by the River Lot on three sides with lots of bridges and has a medieval section that we spent our rest day exploring.
The next day, May 10th, we were off to Paris by train and then home to Toronto.
Fall 2019
September 27th, 2019 and we are back in Cahors to continue our adventures!
The next day we head out of town on a 20.5 km hike to Lascabanes by crossing the fortified bridge. Looks like another great day for hiking.
The trail turns left up a steep cliff to get our blood flowing.
Climbing up the cliff provides an opportunity for photos and to catch your breath.
Ever higher.
Don't two of the bridge towers appear to be leaning?
Finally on some flat ground.
But then we climb again.
The first sign of other pilgrims ahead.
First of many crosses along the route with stones placed on the monument by pilgrims on their journey. Of particular interest is the heavily laden grape vines in the background.
One of the clearer route blazes.
We begin our descent into Lascabanes
Passing fields of sorghum (a cereal I later discovered) as we enter town.
At last we arrive at our Gite for the night.
Our bedroom for the night is the first window on the right, next to the entrance to the church. Some of the pilgrims had their feet washed by the priest prior to dinner.
A few beers were in order after the first day of hiking and after every day for that matter.
Our communal dinner in the church's wine cellar with the other pilgrims staying at the Gite. The gentleman to my right is Ueli who had hike from Zurich (1250 km) with another 1,250 km to go to Santiago. He, Carol (sitting opposite him), and Julie-Ann (sitting to his right) comprised the English speaking end of the table with Boyd and I. There were also some Quebecers at the other end of the table that we met later. A great meal with plenty of local wine.
September 29th: We were off early he next morning with another promising day of hiking. We were hiking 23.5 km to the town of Lauzerte that day.
Another old well along side the trail.
A small chapel along the route.
The trail passes limestone cliffs like the Bruce.
Entering the town of Montcuq where there was a farmer's market day.
After picking up fixings for Lunch we headed back on the trail where we cam across a man hunting wild boar which apparently entails sitting and waiting for the boar to run past him.
In the village of Rouillac we find a picnic table in front of the church for our lunch of wine, cheese and bread.
We met a few other pilgrims who we tried to entice into sharing our wine. Christan resisted but Francois indulged suggesting that wine was the blood of the pilgrim which we definitely agreed with. Ueli arrived at the end of lunch but sadly we had finished the wine.
Back on the trail after lunch we leave town.
We passed by the town of Montcuq.
A strange shy flock of sheep.
The view before we descend into our destination of Lauzerte
A rest before we begin the descent. Why aren't there any benches?
Down we go.
And we find a bench!
We discover Lauzerte is way on top of a hill.
The view over the valley.
Cats are enjoying the view as well.
On our way to dinner where Carol joined us for dinner.
September 30th: We leave early the next morning on a 24.5 km hike to the larger town of Moissac.
A look back at Lauzerte.
We are joined by more pilgrims as we begin the climb out of the valley.
Resting and looking back after climbing out of the valley.
A pigeon house next to this large farm house..
A water jug for pilgrims on the trail.
The trail follows along a ridge.
A farmer left fresh fruit for pilgrims on the trail.
We pass a field of dead sunflowers.
We pass yet another vineyard.
The town of Dufort-Lacapelette
An orchard that was totally covered to protect the fruit from birds.
Leaving Montesquieu.
Yet another vineyard.
As we enter Moissac we cross a canal that is part of a network that links Bordeaux with the Mediterranean.
October 1st: We begin today's hike of 19.0 km to Auvillar by walking back into town to find the cathedral before heading west on the trail alongside the canal.
We pass a series of locks on the canal.
We crossed over the canal to enter the town of Malause for lunch.
Lunch was lasagna and salad with the obligatory beer but unfortunately the waiter misunderstood and brought a small beer so we had to get another.
A quick view of the town church before we head back on the trail along the canal.
We cross the canal just before a nuclear power plant. The cooling towers can be seen in the background.
More dead sunflower fields.
The final kilometer into Auvillar which is of course on top of a hill.
Round market stall in the town square.
The clock tower. Our hotel for the night was adjacent to the tower.
Our hotel and the deck where we enjoyed our end of day beer.
October 2nd: The next morning we left Auvillar behind and began our 23 km hike to Castet-Arrouy.
The day started off gray but no rain.
We pass though the town of Saint-Antoine.
Further along the trail we caught up to Ueli and Eric (from Grenoble) where a farmer had left out coffee and cake for passing pilgrims.
Ueli joined us for our hike for a time.
The trail passes through the town of Flamarens.
The interior of a church that was being restored.
Photo being taken from inside church.
View over the valley from church.
Heading out of town again.
Entering the town of Miradoux.
and Ueli and Boyd leaving Miradoux
A ruined castle on the outskirts of town.
We arrive at our Auberge for the night and find a place for our end of day beer.
The town square with our Auberge in the background.
October 3rd: We had a more leisurely hike planned for today with only 19 km to our next stop at the town of Marsolan.
The trail continues through farm country.
After 10 km we appoached the town of Lectoure.
As we walked up to the town we passed a cemetery.
The large cathedral dominates the skyline of the town
After a lunch by the Cathedral we head out of town with a view out over the river valley below.
A last look back at Lectoure/
Back to farmland.
We enter the town of Marsolan.
October 4th: We leave early the next day for a 26.5 km hike to the town of Condom.
After hiking through rolling farmland we arrive at our destination in the town of Condom. The Cathedral is to the right and the building at the end of the square is the restaurant where we had a great dinner that night.
The restaurant "Balcony" where we had dinner that night.
View from dinner
Boyd as the fifth Musketeer.
October 5th: We began a 17 km to Montreal du Gers by crossing the La Baise river with morning fog patches in the vineyards.
Crossing the Pont d'Artigues over the Osse River. A bridge has been here since Roman times.
a much needed break with "potable" water nearby.
We reach the outskirts of Montreal.
but where is that hotel?
October 6th: We begin our 27 km hike form Montreal to Manciet by exiting through the town gate.
We are soon back out in the country.
Passing fish ponds.
The trail follows an abandoned rail bed.
Boyd sampling some fruit.
W approach the village of Lamothe.
We take a break near a Gite in the village where they have a compass with distances to major points on our route. Somewhat discouraging.
Back on a rail trail.
We enter the town of Eauze and find a nice restaurant for lunch and beer (Henri IV).
We leave town with only 11 km more to Manciet.
Rain has been threatening all day so rain gear is on but rests are still taken.
We reach our Hotel for the night which on the plus side served beer but there were a number of negatives. After a shower we went downstairs for a beer where the land lady informed us she was going out and would see us at 7:30. So we took our beer outside after she showed us how to get back in the locked hotel. Well after the beer we discovered the key didn't work no matter how we tried to manipulate it in the lock. We were soon wondering whether she meant 7:30 at night or in the morning. Cell phones were dying, clothes and passports were in our room, the town seemed deserted, just a great situation for two paranoid hikers. Luckily after two hours the landlady returned and with great disgust (and total lack of English or sympathy) showed us that she had mistakenly left a key inside the door lock which prevented us from opening it. After she failed to meet us for breakfast at the agreed 7:30 am we were almost ready to write a negative review. Perhaps not one of our recommended places to stay without even commenting on the very high potential for bed bugs.
Wandering the deserted streets looking for someone.
The town bullring was deserted as well.
October 7th: We happily leave town the next morning on a 27.5 km hike to Luppe Violies.
We were soon back in the country.
The trail passes Eglise-l'hopital Sainte Christie which was owned by the Knights of Malta.
For our bilingual readers.
At the Prime Meridian there is a display of photos of other pilgrims.
Approaching the town of Nogaro where there was a car race going on making accommodation at a premium.
Back out in the fields.
Boyd checking out his beard.
An opportune rest stop.
Some fungus and plant photos for Ron J.
We reach our hotel in Luppe Violies which is few kilometres off the trail but is very nice and worth the extra walk.
Palm trees by the backyard pool.
October 8th: Our destination today is Aire Sur L'Adour which according to our guidebook is a 25 km hike but as we leave the hotel we are told it is only 15 km. A nice surprise. Another nice surprise is our first glimpses of the Pyrenees Mountains on the horizon.
We pass a fixer upper but with its own vineyards that seem to have swallowed the house as well.
We stop in the town of Barcelonne-du-Gers by a public swimming pool.
By noon we had arrived at our hotel in Aire sur L'Adour and after dropping our packs we continued on into town for lunch.
October 9th: We left early in the morning with a plan to hike 20 km to Miramont Sensacq. It was another grey day with rain threatening as we climbed out of the town.
The trail passes through a park with a man made lake which was largely drained. Rain began as we passed through the park so pictures were limited.
We reached Miramont Sensacq at 1:15 pm in the rain. The only restaurant/pizzeria was only open from noon until 1 pm and there was little else in the town Our accommodation for the night was 2 km out of town and we weren't allowed in until 3 pm. We had conflicting information as to the distance to the next town, (anywhere form 10 km to 16 km) but we decided to hike on to the next town reasoning it was better to be walking and staying warm than sitting in the rain.
The skies started to clear as we approached our new destination of Arzacq Arraziguet.
The total hike turned out to be 32 km that day but we found a bar where we caught up with our friend Ueli and his wife who had joined him for a couple of weeks of the hike.
We also found a great hotel with nice rooms and an excellent chef that personally served us an amazing meal at our table.
October 10th: The next morning we awoke to a beautiful day for a leisurely 30 km trip by cab to the city of Pau where we were scheduled to catch a plane to Paris the next morning.
A morning walk around Arzacq Arraziguet before we leave.
After a short ride we arrive in Pau with clear views of the Pyrenees.
We spent the afternoon walking around the city.
The Pryenees beckon.
As usual, a beer is welcomed.
Palm trees reminded us how far south we have come.
The town square was being decorated for a breast cancer fund raising event
A pre-dinner beer overlooking the Pyrenees.
After a great meal at the Chicken with 3 Feet we had an early night and an earlier morning for our 6 am flight from Pau to Paris and on to Toronto. We shall return in the Spring to complete our hike over the Pyrenees to Pamplona Spain.
I think if you are a farmer those sunflowers are ripe rather than dead!
ReplyDeleteThanks for demonstrating how economical hiking should be done. My estimate is you were achieving about 12 litres per 100 km!